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significant wave height
In physical oceanography, the significant wave height (SWH or ''H''s)
is defined traditionally as the mean wave height (trough to crest) of the highest third of the waves (''H''1/3). Nowadays it is usually defined as four times the standard deviation of the surface elevation – or equivalently as four times the square root of the zeroth-order moment (area) of the wave spectrum. The symbol ''H''m0 is usually used for that latter definition. The significant wave height may thus refer to ''H''m0 or ''H''1/3; the difference in magnitude between the two definitions is only a few percent.
==Origin and definition==
The original definition resulted from work by the oceanographer Walter Munk during World War II. The significant wave height was intended to mathematically express the height estimated by a "trained observer". It is commonly used as a measure of the height of ocean waves.
抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』
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